The Master Musicians of Joujouka

To complement my story of the music in Morocco running in the Independent this weekend, here’s a brief collection of images from my trip to Joujouka.

Joujouka, or Jajouka, as it’s often termed, has changed since Brian’s visit, with the advent of electricity. Some thought that Bou Jeloud would disappear with the coming of such technology; still, he’s a regular presence, although sadly the village has been afflicted by a split between the musicians. The story is complex, and affects Brian’s own legacy, for the recent reissue of the music he recorded there was a mess, with the original sleeve design defaced to remove mention of Mohammed Hamri, who introduced both Gysin and Brian to the musicians. Whatever the rival claims to the tradition, it was joyous to see this music in the location that gave birth to it. I’ll return to this music, I’m sure, but for the moment I hope you enjoy the photos of one of the world’s special places; included here are photos of the house where Brian stayed, with George Chkiantz and Suki Potier, and the view to the mountain – which is home to Bou Jeloud, the goat god who, Gysin and others believed, was a manifestation of that ancient deity, Pan.


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